- Download: Preparation Guide
- Download: Application Guide
Product Technical Data Sheets:
- Download: Aqua Prime
- Download: Water Based Epoxy
- Download: Epoxy Flake Chips
- Download: Polyurethane Coating
- Ensure to read the all of the TECHNICAL DATA SHEETS, the PREPARATION GUIDE’S and the APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS thoroughly first.
- It is recommended to do a test patch first to determine the suitability of the product.
- Do not apply when the ambient temperature is below 15c or above 28c.
- Do not apply in direct sunlight when the temperatures exceed 28c.
- The substrate must be cool to touch before applying any sealer or coating.
- Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for coverage.
- Ensure the concrete has sufficient porosity for the sealer to penetrate.
- Dip a finger into a glass of water and apply 2-3 drops to the surface.
- Time the amount of time it takes for the water to soak into the concrete.
- For sufficient porosity to apply a sealer, this should be no longer than 90 seconds.
- Repeat the test over multiple sections of the concrete substrate.
- If under 90 seconds then the concrete has sufficient porosity for application of the sealer.
- If the water soaks in extremely fast (30 seconds or less), then it is advisable to apply Aqua Prime before an application of the base coat of epoxy.
- If longer than 90 seconds, then it may be necessary to either acid wash or diamond grind the concrete to open it up and create the required porosity.
- The substrate must be dry and free from any rising moisture.
- Ideally use a concrete moisture meter to determine the moisture content. If this is not available, proceed using the method below.
- To test for moisture, cut a piece of thick black plastic into 1m².
- Ensure that it is free from any tears or pinholes (this would render the test useless).
- Attach the plastic to a section of the substrate (repeat in other areas) & duct tape the edges.
- It is important that the plastic is completely sealed around all edges and free from holes.
- After 24 hours, remove the plastic. If the concrete has darkened or there is condensation under the plastic, then the concrete is not sufficiently dry to apply a sealer or coating.
- If the substrate is not dry enough then either wait a few more days & repeat the test or it may be necessary to use a concrete moisture barrier. Contact Right Choice for advice.
- All substrates must be clean and free of contamination i.e. oil, grease, bird droppings etc.
- Many of these contaminates are easily removed using the Right Choice Concrete Cleaner.
- In some cases it may be necessary to use a concrete grinder or a light acid wash.
- Basically, if water does not penetrate through the contamination then neither will a sealer or a coating.
- If required, the concrete can be lightly acid etched prior to sealing. This will help to create a more porous substrate.
- Use extreme caution and safe handling methods when using hydrochloric acid.
- Before acid etching, make sure the concrete is cleaned properly of all contaminants, oil, grease and dirt by using the Right Choice Concrete Cleaner (mix @ 50:50 dilution with water), paying extra attention to heavily contaminated areas.
- Rinse the Concrete Cleaner off thoroughly with clean water.
- Dilute the hydrochloric acid with water at a rate of 1 part acid to 10 parts water. CAUTION! Always add the acid to the water, not water to acid.
- Lightly dampen the surface so that the concrete is slightly wet but not puddling water.
- Apply the diluted solution evenly to the surface using a watering can or similar.
- Allow the acid to bubble on the concrete for up to 15 mins.
- Once the bubbling has ceased, thoroughly rinse the surface off with clean water (abide by local laws for disposal).
- Neutralise the surface using the Right Choice Concrete Cleaner (mix @ 50:50 dilution with water, highly alkaline). Brush the mixture into the surface and allow it to sit for 5-10mins before rinsing thoroughly with clean water.
- Allow the surface to dry for a minimum of 24 hours (weather dependant).
*Note – If neutralising is not done correctly, acid etching can leave a white powdery residue, (calcium carbonate) on the dried surface. This is a fine white dust which can cause problems with adhesion and delamination of the coating. Once neutralising is complete, check the entire surface of the concrete. It should have a uniformed texture similar to medium grit sand paper (If not, repeat the above process). Sprinkle a few drops of water over the surface and If all the water is quickly absorbed, the surface is sufficiently oil and grease free. If the water still beads up (even if only in certain areas), then further preparation as above will be required.
Before applying any product, please open all coloured drums and boxes of flake to check that the colour is correct. If there is any variance in colour etc, please contact Right Choice Coatings before proceeding. Once the product has been installed, Right Choice Coatings will not be held responsible for any colour variations.
Step 1 – Aqua Prime (if used)
- Aqua Prime only requires 1 coat and can be applied by brush, roller, broom, or pump up sprayer, however the best results are achieved using a roller.
- Aqua Prime can be poured directly onto the surface or into a roller tray. Ensure the entire surface it wet, avoid applying the primer/sealer too thick or having it pool on the surface.
- Allow the primer to completely touch dry before applying a subsequent sealer or coating. A minimum of 3 hours drying time is required, weather dependent.
- Ensure that the subsequent sealer or coating is applied within 12 hours of the initial application of the Aqua Prime. The surface must be completely dry before applying any topcoat. Please consult the relevant TDS for topcoat application details.
Step 2 – Water Based Epoxy Base Coat
If using multiple batches:
- Make a line on the outside of the tin where it is filled to (after batching you will fill each tin back up to this line)
- After adding the colour pack (unless already pre-tinted) to each batch, pour 1/4 of each batch into a clean bucket and mix them all together. Repeat this process back and forth until all batches are a uniform colour.
- Note: Do NOT mix just 1 batch at a time and then apply as you will get a colour variance.
- Fill each tin back up to the line previously marked and mix thoroughly again. This is now a tinted product ready for application.
- Mix “part A” thoroughly first.
- Once mixed, slowly pour “part B” into “part A” while still mixing. Mix for approximately 2 minutes using a slow speed drill and squirrel mixing paddle. Allow to stand for 1 minute & then mix again for 1 minute.
- If thinning is required, it is possible to add no more than 5% water to help with the flow. Only add the water to the already MIXED epoxy and slowly mix in thoroughly.
- Only mix enough epoxy that can be used within 20 minutes. It’s a good idea to start with mixing only 4ltrs (3ltrs of A to 1ltr of B) to begin with until you are confident with the amount of product that can be installed in a 20min window.
- Never mix a new batch in a previously used bucket as this will accelerate the setting time of the epoxy and you decrease the working time dramatically.
- Always wear the appropriate personal protection equipment.
- Mask up the surrounding skirtings etc.
- Water Based Epoxy should be applied using a 10mm, lint free roller cover.
- Immediately pour the mixed epoxy onto the substrate in ribbons. (Do not leave the epoxy in the bucket or a roller tray as it will go off much quicker)
- Cut in the edges using a brush and roll apply the Epoxy evenly at the approximate rate of 5m² per ltr without leaving any puddles.
- The more times you roll it, the more chance there is of it going off too quick and getting roller marks.
- Ensure to keep “wet edge” of the epoxy to avoid any overlapping marks or roller marks.
- Before the Water Based Epoxy begins to dry, walk back over the epoxy in spike shoes, broadcasting the Decorative Flake chips evenly & liberally into the wet epoxy ensuring that no bare patches are left. If you see gloss patches, apply more flake until the entire floor looks like dry flake.
- Allow the epoxy and flake to harden for 16‐20 hours.
- Sweep up any excess Decorative Flake and give the floor a very light hand sand or scrape to flatten any flake that is standing up. Sweep and vacuum thoroughly.
- Remove any tape from the skirting edge carefully.
Step 3 – Polyurethane Top Coats
- Polyurethane Coating should be mixed at a ratio of: 3 parts A to 1 part B
- Mix “part A” thoroughly first. Once mixed, slowly pour “part B” into “part A” while still mixing.
- Use a new bucket for every new batch that you mix. Never mix a new batch in a previously used bucket as this will accelerate the setting time of the Polyurethane and you decrease the working time dramatically.
- Always wear the appropriate personal protection equipment.
- Polyurethane Coating should be applied using a lint free, 8mm – 10mm nap roller cover.
- Ensure the floor is completely free from any loose flake and proceed with the first coat of Polyurethane.
- Immediately pour the mixed Polyurethane onto the substrate in ribbons. (Do not leave the Polyurethane in the bucket or roller tray as it will go off much quicker)
- Cut in the edges using a brush and roll apply the Polyurethane evenly at the approximate rate of 6m² per ltr without leaving any puddles. Once the spread rate is achieved, gently “tip off” the polyurethane with the roller and move on to the next section. This will allow the polyurethane to self-level. (The more times you roll it, the more chance there is of it going off too quick and getting roller marks).
- *NOTE – It is very important that when you are brushing or cutting in the edges, you must ensure not to apply the Polyurethane too thick. Once the edges are done, ensure to roll over the brush marks as close to the edge as possible to thin the Polyurethane out to be the same thickness that is on the rest of the floor. If it is applied too thick, the Polyurethane will crack and lift the epoxy and flake underneath.
- Ensure to keep “wet edge” of the Polyurethane to avoid any overlapping marks.
- Allow 5-8 hours drying time in-between coats.
- When the first coat of polyurethane is completely dry proceed with a subsequent coat, rolling at 45 deg. angles to the previous to achieve an approximate spread rate of 7-8m2 per ltr.
- If you allow more than 8 hours drying time in-between coats, it will be necessary to wait approximately 12-16 hours and then sand the floor using a 180# sandpaper prior to applying another coat of Polyurethane.
- Do not walk on for a minimum of 24 hours and allow 14 days before parking cars on it.
*NOTE: Polyurethane has a 7-10 day full cure through rate. Please exercise caution when sitting furniture on, sliding boxes etc and walking on in this time frame. DO NOT DRIVE ON FOR A MINIMUM OF 14 DAYS.